Friday 21 June 2013

The Restaurant @ The Hotel Portmerion

You know how sometimes you have great expectations, and then the disappointment when they're dashed is significantly greater than when expectations are low...well, that's how I felt after a recent experience at The Hotel Portmerion.

Oh, it all started off beautifully and my expectations climbed higher and higher...but then, a tumbling down I simply can't not share.

Each year a group of six of us travel to a friend's holiday home near Portmerion for a weekend of unashamed doing very little but read, watch chick flicks, eat, drink and get merry.  A highlight this year was a table for six at Hotel Portmerion's restaurant.

Upon arrival we tucked ourselves away in a super little side-room, ordered drinks and perused the menu.  All good so far!  A Welsh gin was the key component in my G&T, which I have to say was excellent. 

We decided to stick with the set menu for £38 for three courses, plus wine.  A fabulous wine list was presented, from which we chose a lovely, highly underrated, Sicilian Nero D'Avola (spelled wrong on the list, by the way!)

After being escorted by the charming Maitre d' to our table, we never saw the chap again.  Amuse Bouche were brought that really set our tastebuds tingling; a superb teeny shot glass of seafood chowder and a lamb ball with a mint dip that I would have begged for more of any day.

Starters were also very good, perhaps a little underseasoned, but still delicious.  The pork belly with apple puree was just the right balance of soft and squashy with the finest layer of crackling possible - quite a feat of culinary engineering!

Expections rose yet another notch...and this is where it all went wrong for me.

After a significant internal debate, which eventually was won by my waistline I chose the asparagus risotto, as did two of my friends.  I had debated whether or not to go with the duck, but as I say, the little voice sitting on my mummy tummy won out.  Should have gone with the duck.  The risotto was so badly oversalted it made my mouth burn. At first I wondered if it was just me being fussy, but no, we had all put our forks down.  Meanwhile the duck eaters were singing its praises.

I called over a waiter, who seemed at a loss for what to do. I suggested a manager would be the best place to start.  This lady immediately took the plates away and came back to tell us that: "The chef will make more, and this time he says he won't put any salt in." Sublime to ridiculous?  True to his word, the next plateful was unsalted.  It was also undercooked.  Badly.  Gritty and unpleasant, we barely touched our dishes.  When the plates were cleared though we weren't asked if there was a problem. 

After the same lady had leaned across two of us to pass a menu to the third, we gathered that our pudding orders were expected.

My friend Jacqui has rather a passion for souffle, and her dreams came true with the most glorious passion fruit souffle with coconut icecream.  A deeply satisfied silence descended over that end of the table, supported by the happy winner of the blueberry and praline macaroon, accompanied by a lavendar ice cream bees would have fought over.

It's such a shame when service and food quality is so mixed.  Do I recommend, or not? Do I go back, or not?

I chose to write to Dylan Hughes, the Operations Manager, and am pleased (and relieved) to say that his response was excellent.  Aside from the obvious, an aplogy, Mr Hughes detailed every action he'd taken with each member of staff, by name.

I believe that this indicates a commitment to customer service that, on the whole, maintains the beautiful surroundings and amazing cuisine you can discover there.

And as Portmerion Village is possibly one of the most fascinating little spots in Wales, with its architecture, luxury accomodation and televisual history, then I would recommend a visit - and a meal - to anybody. 

Just avoid large bouncing balls.

I will return...with my girlfriends, for our next annual getaway!



www.portmeirion-village.com/

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