Friday 7 June 2013

Carluccio's, Spinningfields

You'd think that with a brand name like Carluccio's, and 45 restaurants around the UK, this popular chain would be able to get the basics right, and indeed the not so basics.



But no, disappointment all round, and I won't be going there again!

It was a beautiful evening in Manchester, sunshine all day long, so Spinningfields, and its many bars and restaurants, was buzzing.  We had booked a table for four, at a relatively early time of 7.15pm.  The tables outside were busy, but inside was quiet, perhaps 20% full.

We stood for quite some while, wondering if anybody was going to come and seat us, and eventually flagged down a harrassed looking manager.

We ordered wine, olives, bread and water and perused the menus.  The olives are fab, no doubt about it.  The bread really less so - for four people one piece of foccacia, 3 pieces of rather dry french stick, two breadsticks and a flat, tasteless thing, plus a tiny dish of olive oil with balsamic vinegar.  Shame on you Carluccio's!

I chose the mozzarella and tomato salad; hard to get wrong, and they didn't, as such.  It wasn't great though - it had clearly had a dusting of salt, but the olive oil was boring, not fresh, peppery and fruity like it should be, and I had to ask for black pepper.

My main course however was a disaster, start to finish.  I LOVE calves liver.  Hubs doesn't though, so I only get my chops around it when we're out.  The menu description of pan fried calves liver, with red onion jam and sautĂ© potatoes called out to me, and I answered.  Unfortunately the chef clearly doesn't have the same regard for this dish as I do.  The liver hadn't been prepared properly and was almost impossible to cut through, with the outer sheath left on and a few minutes too long in the pan.  A generous helping of potatoes didn't make up for this, nor did the rather glutinous onion jam.  A side order of courgette, red pepper and aubergine in tempura batter blew my recommended daily allowance of salt out the water for a week - I am not averse to a generous sprinkling of sea salt on crispy battered veggies, but I think the chef used a winter salt shovel on this occasion.

At this point, to be fair, I have to refer to the experience of my fellow diners: two started with the Arancini, which were fabulous (see this recipe, I'm going to give it a whirl!) the steak was 'good' and the veal was 'wonderful', testified to by two clear plates.  The Carbonara however was underseasoned (perhaps I got hers?) and the pancetta untrimmed and undercooked, leaving big white fatty strips that are horribly unappetising.

I spoke to the manager, who had been racing around like a mad woman all night (staffing issues?) and she dealt with my disappointment calmly and admirably - no debate, just an immediate apology and stripping the cost off the final bill, with puddings for all as recompense.

It's a huge shame when businesses take their customers for granted, selling themselves on a name and a history of success.  I'll never go back there, and I suspect I'm not alone.  I'm not hard to please, but I do expect a certain level of quality and service, both of which were missing.  It's easy to rely upon a great location and ever changing clientele, but laziness and complacency will eventually lead to disaster - time to get your act together Carluccio's!

carluccios.com

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